MANASAROVAR
MOUNT KAILASH
All
human being gets an opportunity once in a life time to experience which will be
cherished for ever. In our life we got this opportunity in the form “Holy yathra
to MANASAROVAR and Kailash”. This note is to share our- mine and my wife’s-
experience about the recent Kailash yathra we had undertaken.
Well, some time in the month
of June 2013, casually we were chatting about Kailash and when Prabha was
talking to my son Shankar, he mentioned about this. When he suggested we can
consider undertaking this Yathra, we started finding out the details. Then
suddenly we became serious and started preparing. It is really amazing by July
1 st week , we have finalized our tour operator, made travel arrangements etc
as also started preparing physically and mentally for the Great Yathra. We came
to know that “Kailash and MANASAROVAR “ yathra is supposed to be very tough
and enduring the toughness requires
certain preparation through Exercises.
The Lord of universe- God
Kailash attraction is so great that the moment we decided the mental
preparedness comes automatically and last 2 weeks prior to starting, our entire
mental focus has been towards “LORD KAIKASH” only.
Our Yathra would not have
been possible at all without the support from our SON- CHI SHANKAR who was instrumental –financially, emotionally and in all aspects. My
daughter Bharathi and Daughter in
law Bhuvaneswari also played major part in encouraging and
preparing us for this great trip. It will be only fair that I should mention a
word about Annapoorni Yathra (CHENNAI) and Sivam group (Nepal) who are organizing
the whole trip. There have been few shortfalls during the yathra which could
have been avoided. Nevertheless without their organizing such Yathra we would
not have had such a great Darshan and experience.
This is my attempt to share some of our
experience, cherished moments of 15 days –day to day details which earnestly I
hope can give all of you some idea about the Kailash and MANASAROVAR.
11/8/2013
KATHMANDU AIRPORT
We left Delhi in the morning and reached Kathmandu by Flt.
We arrived at the hotel by 2 pm and checked in. Evening slowly the group
(yathris) started arriving. The group consists of 80 people – mainly from
Tamilnadu. In the evening we just went around few streets to get the feel of
the city. After dinner we retired to our
rooms.
12/8/2013
The excitement started today. We were informed early
morning that there is a small tour to get the glimpse of Everest. Though it is
totally different from Yathra , we
decided to try this. A charter flight – 17 seater takes you through various
famous peaks including EVEREST. It is a one hour Flt around Kathmandu and we
could see the great peaks. Since the weather was fairly good we could get to
see a portion of EVEREST. The best part of the tour is each one of us is taken
to cockpit of the Aircraft twice to get a better view of all the snow clad
peaks. - Great tour.
After the Flt
journey, we went for sight seeing in Kathmandu. The name Kathmandu means house of woods.the present day kathmandu was once a lake called nagdaha. the lake was drained by a carpentor MANJUSRI, with his saw-which is called DU in nepali. hence KATHMANDU.
First we went to LORD
PASHUPATHY NATH temple. That day being last Monday of SHRAVAN month, for
local population consider this as the second greatest festival equal to Maha Sivarathri. Hence the temple was too much
crowded. However we could have good Drashan. Lord Pashupathi Nath is considered to be “head portion” and Lord in Kedarnath as “body portion” of
lord Shiva. At the entrance there is a temple of Adi Shanakra with his disciples.
PASHUPATH NATH TEMPLE ENTRANCE
Then we proceeded
to GUHYESWARI
DEVI temple which is one of the
Shakthi peetam -a km from pashupathinath temple . From there we went to Budh nilkanth
temple. This is also called Jal narayan
Temple. The story goes like this. In ancient days, a old farmer in this region
(A follower of Bhudha) was tilting .one day he heard a sound of metal
touching his instrument. Also he noticed Blood strain in the edge of the
instrument. He got scarred and called the village people. They prayed and excavated
further and found LORD MAHAVISHNU IDOL.
Here Lord MAHAVISHNU
is Lying flat (full body) in the water – a great and rare posture –
different from Pallikonda perumal or Adhi seshan-- on an area of 2400 sq ft –a
gigantic site. This temple is also called BUDA NILKANT.
JAL NARAYAN TEMPLE
We returned to
hotel only around 4.30 pm .Evening all the yathri”s assembled and the tour
operator explained about various aspects of the proposed Yathra to MANASAROVAR and Kailash .
We prepared packing only essential things for 13 days with lots of winter cloth,
leaving behind our regular baggage.
MANOHARJI ADDRESSING
13/8/2013
We started around 6 am from Kathmandu by bus. Our first
leg of journey is towards China/Tibet border – a place called Kodari. This takes around 5.30 hrs. The
journey was wonderful with both sides Green mountains. Breathe taking scenes.
The Nature God at its peak of beauty. Small water falls, mountains covered with
cloud, at a height of 6000 feet. Wonderful site and Nepal is blessed with such
a beautiful range of mountains- all Himalayan range.
We were passing through Zugmu river/ forest range. Zugmu River
flows here. We reached the border – KODARIaround 12.30noon. We had lunch in
Nepal side of the border and changed our currency from Rupees to CHINESE YUVAN
for expenses.
Then all of us
walked towards the Chinese immigration point by crossing a bridge –
called Friendship Bridge.
The immigration
clearance for all 80 people took almost 2 hours and then our guide took us to Chinese
side. There we changed to another fleet of bus.
The journey from here started to a place called NYALAM
which is half way through to MANASAROVAR. This takes about 4 to 5 hrs. All the
way only ranges of mountain – some time partially snow clad. Quite contrast to
morning journey, here only Brown Mountain and not much of greenery. The range
comes under Tibet/ China territory.Claimed further altitude.
We reached NYALAM which
is almost 13000 feet height. The moment we got down from bus,all of us were hit
by the altitude effect and most of us were feeling un comfortable . We entered
the camp accommodation and it took ½ Hour to get adjusted to the altitude
discomfort. The accommodation is just sufficient to sleep – in a room about 5
to 7 beds with very few toilets. The temp in the night touched almost 0 deg. However we were all provided with
good bedding arrangements. After dinner all of us were given a tablet to over
come the high altitude sickness and the same were continued twice a day for
almost 7 days. However many Yathris suffered high altitude sickness. Some how
we managed to sleep over the night.
ENTRANCE TO NYALAM
14/8/2013
STAY AT NYALAM
Got up in the morning and most of the people felt much
better. After breakfast, we explored the small town, did some small purchase. It
is a very small town surrounded by mountains. Most of the people bought walking
stick, shoes, energy drink etc for further yathra. After lunch we had some
Bhajan .
Then I went for a brief
trekking to a nearby mountain to get the feel. I felt good and confident about
forthcoming Parikrama. In the evening we had elaborate Pooja – placing the
Thirusulam to be installed at Kailash. It was divine feeling .Then after dinner
retired to bed. I could sleep better than the earlier day.
15/8/2013
We had breakfast and started the further journey. Our
next leg was towards a place called TONGBA .Again we passed through mountain ranges- in between small
stream or rivers. Both sides snow clad mountain, fantastic sight. Mountains of
brown, black and mud covered, were seen. Slowly we travelled to further altitude. We
passed through a range where river Brahmaputra originate.
Ultimately after 5 to 6 hours drive we reached the camp
at TONGBA around 4.30 pm..By now Prabha was completely down- vomiting several
times- un able to take anything .Fortunately in this camp we got a good room
only with two beds- good privacy. A doctor among the Yathri attended to prabha
and gave her some medicines. But the vomiting continued. She had to manage only
with COMPLAN drink that too very little. Lost all her energy and I was worried
very much.
CAMP AT TONGBA
There was some pooja and Bhajan going on but I could not
sit there due to Prabha's condition. Then around 10 pm the vomiting stopped
little and she could sleep. However became very weak because of no food for the
past 24 hrs. We therefore decided to skip the Parikrama and were praying that
at least we should reach Manasarovar and get kailash DARSHAN
16/8/2013
Morning we got up and Prabha was slightly better but not
fully recovered. She skipped breakfast and only I had little. Managed to pack
and got in to the bus for further journey. I was worried about her health. Started the journey towards MANASAROVAR at
5.30 am
The weather was very good.
Again we passed through so many snow clad mountain peaks. We reached the
entrance of MANASAROVAR where we have one check post sort of place where
actually Kailash starts. We had a brief halt for 15 mnts and started the drive
again along with ANASAROVAR Lake.
The MANASAROVAR Lake is 53
km dia and circumference of appx 165 km- A great lake. During the entire
stretch- the water is very clear. Few place four different colors –blue, green,
brown and white which is very rare sight. Manasarovar looks like great SAGAR.
MANASAROVAR
LAKE
On the way we were
shown the peaks where Lord Subramaniya and one more where Lord Ganesha were
born. We were thrilled to see. We were also shown the “Rakshasa lake” where
Ravana has been meditating.
After about 6 to 7 hrs (around 1.30 noons) we reached A
SPOT –BANK OF
GREAT MANASAROVAR LAKE-- and stopped there. The weather was very
good – sunny. The moment we got down from bus, most of us removed our winter
cloth and headed towards the water. First we felt the water very chill (almost
0 degree temp) then after getting the feel, most of us had a dip and complete
bath. It was a great feeling. The water was very pure and holy- in fact the
purest water you will get in the world. Because of chillness immediately after
quick bath all of us came out of the
water.
Prabha had Prokshanam only.
Then I did my
Sandyavandhanam, siva panchashri jabham etc for about ½ hour. It was great
feeling as the belief is even you touch the sand of MANASAROVAR, you wash off
all your sins committed in your life.
Very glad that I
could have complete bath. We also had a glimpse of Kailash from there.
Then all of us had lunch there itself and it was really
great with the lake in front of you and bright sunshine. We started our journey
further and already we have claimed the altitude of almost 17000 feet. We
reached MANASAROVAR camp around 4 pm for the night stay. Here few Tibetian
women rushed to the camp with items like Spadigha mala, etc for sale. We bought
few items. After Dinner we slept. Around 11.30 pm we got up as we were told all
the Devathas – like INDRAN and others- (stars) will come down to lake to offer
prayer to Lord Shiva. Since it was raining slightly and the cloud was not clear
we could not see anything. Hence returned to room.
However, again I got up around 2.00 mid night. Few of us
holding Umbrella rushed to half way towards shore of the lake. It was pitch
dark and the cloud was fairly clear. After closely watching in silence for few
minutes, I could spot two STARS coming down to the lake. Immediately after that
moment I felt some buzzing sound in my years. Very thrilling experience and one
should experience to believe .After some time I returned to bed.
17/8/2013
All the Yathris got up morning around 6 am and
immediately after tea, started preparing for a big HOMAM to be performed. First
we carried all the Murthis, Siva lingams brought by various people from home
and also carried the Thirisulam brought from Chennai to the lake. There we did
Abhishekam to all, did pooja on the bank of MANASAROVAR. Though we did not
carry any of our poojas from Bangalore, I was fortunate that I could carry one GANESHA
for an old lady. Then all the Moorthis, lingams were brought back to the camp
in a procession – chanting Thirumarai, Rudhram etc.
ABHISHEKAM ON THE BANK
PROCESSION FROM LAKE
A big Homakundam
was made and all the murthis were placed around. Most of the yathris sat around
and performed various homams- chanting all manthras, did abhishekam of Pancha
amritham, milk, honey, all types of fruits etc.
It was good serene atmosphere. Every body was chanting mantras and
abhishekam. This took almost 3 hours. I am happy that I got the opportunity of
chanting RUDHRA DIRUSATHI on behalf of all Sivanadiars.
HOMAM IN
MANASAROVAR
After lunch we started our last leg of journey towards
Kailash. First we almost completed the MANASAROVAR Valam’
MOUNT KAILASH FROM BUS
We reached Darsan
camp by evening. This is in fact the BASE CAMP of MOUNT KAILASH before starting
the Parikramha ( Giri Valalm).This place is at the height of almost 19000 feet.
18/8/2013
We started in the morning around 8 am by bus and after
few km drive reached the point called YAMADWAR.
The parikrama actually starts from here only- for people who go by horse as
also by foot. It is advisable that all ladies to take horse and also aged
people. In addition to horse all are advised to take a helper with them
–helpers are called Sherpa’s. In fact it is a belief that they only lead us
towards Lord shiva safely. Their only lively hood is through this and that too
during the season- may to sept. The cost of engaging horse and helper is
definitely more but as mentioned above, people do not generally mind in
incurring this.
YAMADWAR
We wished all the
Yathris good luck for the parikrama and about 15 of us who were not undertaking
parikrama proceeded towards YAMADWAR CAVE. To reach this place had to walk a
KM. It is a small room without a door and we go inside and lit a lamp, pray and
come out from other side. The general belief is that by lighting the lamp here
one can get rid of fear of death.
After this 15 of us returned to base camp- Darsan. Had
lunch and relaxed
as the weather was not that very good. Around 2.30 noon I
came out of the room –outside the camp hoping that the sky would be clear and
possible to have Darshan of Kailash. I was very lucky to see clear sky and
could have a very neat and clear view of Mount Kailash. I rushed inside and
called every body out.
LORD KAILASH is a peak always covered with snow and ice
and only during these four months –that too when it is sunny and cloud is clear
near the mountain, the snow melts partially. Then the peak looks like the shape
of Lord Shiva with Goddess Parvathi. No other peak in Himalaya has got this
feature and uniqueness. This can be witnessed only in Kaiash peak –at any time the snow will not
melt completely.
We had a fantastic DARSHAN of Kailash from 2.30 noons to
almost 5.30 pm –sky being very clear. All of us were very much thrilled and
excited with our good fortune.When you are fortunate, you will have darshan of
Lord Shiva in the ROOPAM you wish earnestly in your mind. Me and Prabha had wonderful Darshan – LORD SHIVA with full
face , two eyes and third eye also (Netri kan) . Jadha mudi, on the right
DEVI PARVATHI. For few minutes we could not believe our eyes. It was the most
exciting 2 hours in our life.
OUR GREAT DARSHAN
I had a feeling of
complete peace and detachment. In fact
we pulled few chairs and sat on the open ground. I was
meditating with Gayathri jab and Rudhram etc. The most satisfying time in our
life. Even the small amount of disappointed feeling we had in the morning for
not able to do Parikrama got washed off with this great Darshan. We are really
blessed with such a great thing to happen in our life. After the sun set we had
dinner and gone to bed.
Though we did not undertake parikrama I wish to add about it – the experience as
told by my fellow SIVANADIARS who undertook parikrama.The total distance to be
covered is appx 48 km in 2 ½ days.
PARIKRAMA
STARTED
PARIKRAMA IN PROGRESS
On this day after walking from Yamadwar for about 5 hrs
appx 10 km, reach a camp called THIRUBUK. Here overnight stay for a day. In the
morning when you get up, if the weather and sky is clear and Sunshine directly
on MOUNT KAILASH, you get a darshan – LORD KAILASH glowing like complete gold-
GLITTERING KAILASH... However on that day, due to weather being bad, it could
not be experienced. Due to bad weather and toughness, almost 35 yathris
returned to base camp –Darsan. Only 20 people proceeded further
On second day they
reached further altitude and reached DOLMA PASS. On their way they hoisted the
Flag, installed the THIRUSULAM. and saw GAURI KUND. Here they collected the
holy water .
The Dolma pass is supposed to be top most point in the
parikrama and here the level of Oxygen is almost ZERO. Another uniqueness about
DOLMA PASS is that here the cosmic energy is 100 % as we were told. All the
parikrama yathris stayed in a camp called ZUDULPUK.
Next day they started claiming down and reached the base
camp around 10 am.
19/8/2013
Morning almost 35
yathris returned to the camp as mentioned above as they could not continue the
parikrama due to bad weather, health
condition etc.
We had complete rest in the base camp. Since most of the
time it was cloudy and slightly raining we were not lucky to have Darshan
except for few minutes in the late after noon we saw partial Kailash.
We did some shopping in the market – no body understands
any language except Chinese. We some how managed and bought few items. We also
called children and back home – to Delhi, Chennai. Returned to camp in the
evening.
20/8/2013
Morning being Upakarma day, I managed to have my Upakarma
very simple in the room itself. Prabha managed to make some prasadam and
distributed to few people.Around 10 am balance 20 people returned to base camp
after successful parikramha .
After breakfast we started our return journey. We were
supposed to reach MANASAROVAR in the evening and do Pournami pooja and also
take bath. Unfortunately after half way, we were told by the tour guide that we
are skipping MANASAROVAR due to some reason , heading back to Tongba
camp. All of us were very much upset and even agitated. We reached TONGBA and
the camp was not at all good. Dark, no light, really a bad camp. People were
really angry as even tea, food etc got delayed. However we had no choice. Some
how we managed the night with great difficulty.
21/8/2013
We got up at 3 am thinking that we will be taken directly
to Kathmandu and started the journey. However after break on the way for
breakfast and 6 hrs drive around 2.30 noons we reached back NYALAM. Here were
told that we are not proceeding to Kathmandu border instead will be staying in NYALAM
for the day. Heated arguments with guide did not yield any result and we had no
choice but to stay there.Evening some other groups staying in the same camp at NYALAM
were doing homam, pooja etc.which we witnessed. Our people were narrating their
Parikramha experience which was good to hear.
Before dinner our
group arranged some entertainment program which was fun. We had good dinner and
slept.
22/8/2013
Left NYALAM early
morning and reached the China- Nepal border- Kodari around 11.00am. Immigration
and crossing took again almost two hrs. Then in the Nepal side of the border we
had lunch in the same hotel. Then around 12.30 noon by Nepal contract bus we
headed towards Kath mandu via the same route .We reached the same hotel around
4.30 pm and with this one day earlier than the schedule we reached Kathmandu
back- gaining one extra day at Kathmandu.
Immediately after checking in to the room, we spent
almost 45 mnts in taking bath. For almost 8 days we did not take bath at all
except a dip in MANASAROVAR. So it was a refreshing to have bath today. Evening
we just had a small walk on Kathmandu road and returned to hotel for dinner
.Meanwhile me and prabha with one of the Yathris – Mr. Narayanswamy who became
close- arranged for a full day taxi for the next day for Kath mandu sight
seeing.
23/8/2013
Morning after
breakfast, three of us left by taxi. First we went to Pasupathinath temple to
have good darshan. There was no rush at all and we could have very good
darshan. We had the view of swamy (all five faces from both sides. There are
also 68 lingams by the side of main temple which we visited. Pashupathinath
temple is situated on the bank of the river Baghmati. We spent more than 2 hrs
in the temple and totally satisfied.
Then Prabha did some shopping. From there
we drove to a place called Nagar kot- drive to the further height
of almost 2000 ft. Here if the weather is very clear, there is a possibility
that we can view EVEREST from the hill top of Nagar kot view point. Unfortunately
the sky was not clear and hence we could not site everest.However the
surrounding peak, scenes etc were fantastic.
From there we went
to a place called Bakth pur- supposed to be one of oldest kingdom, palace and
town in Nepal. They have preserved as a heritage town. We went around the
palace – wonderful place and architecture.
BAKTHPUR KINGDOM
We had lunch here in one of the Dabha type hotel and then
started towards kath mandu city. We reached Bodhgaya- one of the biggest Bhudha
monasteries. But the place was terribly crowded as that day was, I was told is
one of the biggest Buddha festival and hence procession etc. Some how half way
we managed to return.
PROCESSION
Then we proceeded towards Swayabu nath. We reached this
place around 5 pm. This is actually one of the beautiful Buddha temples on a
hill.
SWAMBUNATH TEMPLE
After this we returned
to hotel around 6.30pm.
There was a concluding function organized by the tour
operator and all of us attended. Many people spoke about their experience of
YATHRA especially parikrama. Then all were given a certificate individually
with some citation and photo. Nice one.
CONCLUDING FUNCTION
After dinner
(which was in fact a feast) returned to room.
24/8/2013
WAITING TO RETURN
HOME
Being last day, got up leisurely, went out and had tea.
Part of the group was starting for Muktinath Yathra which many of us already
opted out.
Then after breakfast group by group, depending upon their
travel schedule started leaving for Airport. Since our flt was only at 1.30
noon we finished our lunch and left for airport. Reached Delhi at 4 pm. came
out of the airport and Prabha”s brother came there to meet us with hot coffee
and Idlis. After spending an hour took the flt at 8 pm and reached back
Bangalore by 10.45 pm. Finally reached home around 12 midnight.
We pray LORD
KAILASH for his blessings to one and all and wish that every body gets a chance
to experience this great Yathra.
We
had wonderful 15 days in life, experiencing some very divine moments.
We will cherish every moment of these 15 days and we are
very fortunate that this is made possible due to our wonderful son CHI.
SHANKAR. What more a parent can get from their
son.
We sincerely pray LORD KAILASH and sure all of you will
join us in blessing/ wishing my children for a wonderful life ahead.